You can say you have had a bad day if you get rear ended, in a car accident, or if you accidently run or bump into something. However the day you take it to get repaired could be an even worse day. Most times people are discouraged by taking their vehicle to be repaired not only due to the high costs involved, but the fact that they may be out of a vehicle for days or weeks. Finding an honest mechanic can be a challenge as well. Things to consider: Every 17 seconds a reported rear end collision occurs, and every 8.5 seconds an unreported rear end collision occurs. The most frequent accident on the road is the rear end collision, at almost 29.7%, and 75% of these accidents occur at less than 10 mph. Something else to consider is that 36% of all minor auto body damage is to the front or rear bumper.

More than a third!

One in three people with auto body damage have plastic bumper damage.

So if you unfortunately find yourself in a situation where your bumper needs repair know that you are not alone.

There are some practical solutions for you so, read on about what can be done.

Some mechanics or auto body shops will tell you that your bumper will need to be completely replaced. Well that will involve an average of two days to repair depending on how busy the shop is at that time. Also it will cost you at a minimum 500 dollars and up from there. This is an option for you, however it is not the only or most cost effective option you have.

The fact is that bumpers have changed as does everything else in time. They used to be made of sheet metal, now the metal bumper is covered by a plastic fascia in hopes that minor abrasions might pop out more easily. However the plastic can bend, break or rip.

The best solution would be to bring it to auto reconditioning shop. Auto Reconditioning, also known as Minor Damage Repair, is defined as the repair of vehicles that do not require welding or frame work. The majority of these repairs require between 2-6 labor hours (actual hands-on time) to repair. These repairs include body and paint repair, replacement of “bolt” on parts, and glass and interior repairs. Typical damage includes scratches, dents, chips and gouges. This type of shop can repair your bumper and save you money. Also in most cases it can be done in just a few hours. This would save you time and money, since you will not have to rent a car or be totally out of car. If you find a really good shop they may even offer to come to you to fix your bumper! For this to work in your favor you will need to choose a shop that is professional, experienced, and that uses the highest quality paints and sealants.Start looking for an auto body shop today to take care of your bumper needs.

About Author

Plastic bumper repair can be done; you just need to find the right San Diego bumper repair shop for the job!

5 Simple-Fix Cosmetic Issues

Buying a used car can mean finding a perfect vehicle for a great deal, but it also means you may have to cope with damage done by previous owners or normal wear. Don’t worry! In most cases, a few visual flaws here and there can actually lower the seller’s asking price and won’t cost you an arm and a leg to fix once the car is in your driveway. If you see a car with a few blemishes, don’t be afraid. It might be your best chance to pick up an otherwise great car, and with a little time and less money you can have it looking as good as it did on the show room floor. Check out our quick list of simple-fixes to see what we mean.

1. Door Dings

Parking-lot rash is all but unavoidable. If the used car you’re interested in was ever parked near other drivers, odds are the sheet metal has at least one or two dings in it. Not too long ago, that meant a trip to the body shop and hundreds of dollars in paint and repair. Now, depending on the type of vehicle, you may be able to use a paintless dent-removal company to fix the damage for a fraction of the money and in much less time.

Jeremiah Keenan, owner of Optimum Dent Removal in Illinois and Wisconsin, says his company uses specially-designed hand tools to repair the metal from behind the dent. That means not every wrinkle in your sheet metal can be taken care of this way.

“There are limitations,” Keenan said. “Depending on the size of the dent and location on the vehicle, we may not be able to help.”

If the ding is in the right spot though, paintless dent removal usually only takes an hour and costs between $80 and $100 – much cheaper than taking the car to a professional body shop. In some cases, your insurance may actually cover the repair, too.

2. Cracked Windshields

If the car you’re interested in purchasing has a cracked or chipped windshield, you can use it as a great bartering tool. Usually, cracks any larger than a quarter should be replaced fairly quickly. The good news is that there are many glass-repair companies out there that will replace your windshield in your driveway or in the parking lot where you work. That means no lost time out of your busy schedule to drop off the vehicle at the shop and pick it up again once the job is done.

These companies bring the windshield to you, remove the cracked or chipped piece right there on the spot and do the install all at the same time. They dispose of the old glass and are usually in and out in around an hour. Just like the dent removal, your insurance may cover the cost of the repair depending on your coverage.

While the glass itself can be pricey depending on your vehicle, many times the labor itself is not. Odds are, you’ve got enough going on to have to bother with scheduling someone else to meet you at the glass shop. In this case convenience counts just as much as your hard-earned dollars. You still get the same high-quality work you would expect from a full drop-off shop without all the hassle. Now that’s a simple fix.

3. Cracked Dash

Sometimes, it’s the damage inside that’s the most trouble. Even the newest of used cars can have cracked or torn vinyl dashes that can drag down the resale value of the car and be an aggravation to live with on a day-to-day basis. If that’s the case with your dream vehicle, there are several possible solutions to the problem depending on the size and location of the crack.

The do it yourselfers out there have the option of purchasing an automotive vinyl-repair kit from auto parts stores or specialty tool Web sites. These usually include special materials that can be blended together to match just about every interior color out there, and helpful step-by-step instructions make the process fairly straight forward. Don’t worry if you don’t feel comfortable taking on the project yourself. Odds are there’s someone right around the corner that can help out.

Most companies that offer interior/exterior detailing also offer interior repair. They tend to have much more experience fixing large and small blemishes and take very little time to get the job done right. Many offer vinyl repair as part of an interior cleaning package, so you might just end up with a flawlessly-clean interior while you’re at it.

4. Dented Bumper Cover

Nearly all modern cars come with painted, plastic bumper covers that make the vehicles themselves more aerodynamic. They also serve to cover up the ugly metal mechanisms that make up your car’s bumper system, but since they’re made out of hard plastic, they’re easily dented. Whether caused by another parking-lot nudge or a brush with a telephone pole or parking barrier, a big dent in your possible purchase’s bumper cover can be unsightly and embarrassing.

The good news is damage like this is fairly easy to repair yourself. The plastic almost wants to return to its former shape, so if you live in a particularly warm climate, the fix may be as simple as parking the bumper in the direct sun on a good hot day. Once the bumper is as hot as it’s going to get, you can usually reach behind the bumper cover and push the dent out. It may not look exactly like it did when it rolled off the show room floor, but it’s guaranteed to look better than it did before the repair.

If you aren’t lucky enough to live in an area with balmy temperatures and plenty of sunshine, don’t worry. Many places that offer paintless dent removal can also take care of superficial damage to your bumper cover. Professionals may use heat guns to warm the plastic thoroughly before massaging it back into place. Since there’s a real risk of damaging the paint or the plastic itself, this type of repair is best left to someone with a good amount of experience.

5. Yellowed Headlight Lens Covers

The king of simple-fixes, clearing up those clouded or hazy headlight lenses can make your used car look brand new again. Most headlight lens covers are made of polycarbonate – a family of plastic that’s incredibly durable and very clear when it’s first created. Unfortunately, over time the protective coating on the outside of the lens wears down and the plastic reacts with UV rays from the Sun. The result is a dingy look that can lower your visibility at night and be a solid bartering tool when it comes time to pick up a used car.

The good news is fixing your headlight lens covers is easy and inexpensive. There are several kits available from local automotive parts stores and online. Usually comprised of sand paper or polish and preservative coating, these kits take a little less than an hour to use from start to finish and drastically improve both the appearance and function of your headlights. Expect to pay around $20 for a do it yourself solution.

Many automotive detailing services will also be able to help you clear up your headlight lenses and may offer the service as part of a larger exterior detailing service. Whichever way you go, getting rid of yellowed, hazy lenses will make a big difference.

About Author

Zach Bowman

MIG welding, as most of us are aware, is a semi-automatic arc welding process in which a continuous, consumable wire electrode and a shielding gas are fed through a welding gun. At the end of the gun, there is a contact tip which passes electricity to the wire. Both the wire and shielding gas are activated to create the weld when the operator depresses the trigger of the gun.

Pros of MIG welding

MIG welding is quite popular as it is easy to learn and calls for no special skills. Even a first-time operator will be able to achieve a good weld with minimum practice. People favor MIG welding as it is a much faster than Stick welding and saves time. Thus operating cost of MIG welding is lower than Stick welding because of this saving of time. MIG adjusts to limited electrode length and this allows for longer welds with fewer interruptions.

Besides, there is also no waste of filler metals and generally speaking, thinner materials can be welded far more easily with MIG than Stick welding. One more reason people favor MIG welding is because MIG welding is a tidy process and does not require chipping slag as in Stick welding. MIG certainly makes for very convenient weld tacking and fitting of parts and there is very scant stub loss due to the continuous spool of filler metal.

MIG welding is versatile and capable for a variety of applications, including – trailer hitches, auto body repair and restoration, farm/ranch equipment, household projects, repairing wheel barrows, bicycles, etc. This type of welding demands less time when compared to other types of welding processes.

Cons of MIG welding
The initial cost of MIG set up is high in view of the regulators and shielding gas – though some MIG welding may be done with self-shielding flux core and without gas or a regulator.

It is indeed a fact that all types of material can be welded with a MIG machine. But, in the MIG process different materials require different wire and gases. For instance mild steel can be welded with either self-shielded wire or with CO2 or a CO2 mixed gas but aluminum material requires the use of Argon gas.

It is inadvisable to weld through dirty materials with MIG machines. It is said one should always weld on the cleanest possible material, so for best results scrape off paint, rust or other debris where the weld is being made.

There is no denying that MIG welding equipment is more complex, expensive and less portable and the welding gun is difficult to maneuver. Filler metal can become tangled within the wire feeder making the operator feel annoyed and also adding to downtime. The operator has to patiently keep leads and liners in straight position to allow for proper feeding of filler metal.

Summing up
When electrically charged wire is feeded into the welding arc then it is MIG welding. MIG is commonly preferred because the welding leads are very easy to perform. As a matter of fact, it is said that even robots can be utilized to get the mechanical job done. MIG welder is capable of working with almost all kids of metals, though aluminum and mild steel are the most popular ones.

About Author

Johnpeter

Albert is an expert author for Welder,Tig Welding. He written many articles like Plasma Cutter, Arc Welder,MIG Welder, Diesel Generators. For more information visit our site http://www.everlastgenerators.com/. Contact him at weldings.info@gmail.com

1. Remove old doors and hinges from old cabinets.

2. Remove drawer fronts from each drawer. Set drawers aside. There are two types of drawer fronts. The type that is merely attached to the drawer box can be removed by the removal of the attaching drawer pulls, screws or staples. The front that is an integral part of the drawer box must be cut or sawed off, making sure that the cut is square with the top, bottom and sides of the box.

3. Cabinet preparation: Old screw holes or gaps in the frame work should be filled with either auto body filler or wood filler and, when dry, sanded smooth. All surfaces to be refaced with any type of cabinet refacing material must be scraped clean of chipping paint, grease or varnish. To accomplish this you can use on automatic belt sander or a hard paint scraper. A propane torch can be used on troublesome spots to “lift” the substance from the framework (use with caution).

4. Should you have a corner cabinet situation, it may be necessary to add a filler strip. If you have decided that an opening is slightly too large and you wish to add a filler strip, do it after you scrape that surface. Use a piece of clear pine cut to size. Secure it with nails or screws. Fill in any seams with filler and sand smooth. At times you will need to square off surfaces using 1/4″ core (i.e., cabinet bottoms). Reveals at side returns should be shaved off or area filled in with 1/8″ or 1/4″ luan skin or plywood so that surface is smooth for lamination.

Lamination

1. When all framework is prepared and free of foreign matter, the cabinet refacing laminate, wood veneer or thermo-foil skins can be applied. If working from a full sheet of 2′ x 8′ skin cut the material for cabinet bottoms and returns 1/4″ larger than needed. Make sure grain on under side of wall cabinets run all the same way. Grain on cabinet returns should run vertically.

2. Laminate underside of wall cabinets first. Apply the manufacturer recommended adhesive on both cabinet and cabinet refacing skins. Use a roller or brush, where needed. Let the adhesive dry to the touch. Apply cabinet refacing skin to cabinet surface. Remember that once material is applied to the cabinet it cannot be realigned. Use good judgment and a hand roller or block of wood to press laminate to cabinet. Trim excess material using utility knife or router.

3. Next laminate returns of cabinets, using the same process described above.

4. Cut cabinet refacing skin into strips for stiles and rails with grain running the length of the strip. Again, cut strips 1/4″ larger than needed.

5. Laminate cabinet fronts. Apply cabinet refacing skin strips exactly as cabinet is stilled. Laminate vertical stiles first, then horizontal rails. Keep all seams as tight as possible.

6. Rather than proceeding according to directions 4′ and 5 above, you may use full sheets of laminate. Apply to cabinet fronts, then break through with trimmer and router to trim opening. Both methods are acceptable. Using strips will, of course, save on materials; covering the entire front of the cabinet with a full sheet will save on labor and result in a better lamination since no seams will show on stiles and rails.

7. Regardless of the manner employed in refacing the front of the cabinets, left cabinet refacing skin overhang whenever possible.

8. Remove any excess oak skin from cabinets with a utility knife or router.

9. Cabinet lamination is now completed.

Hardware Application

To install new doors effectively the installer must plan and organize the entire job. Place new doors face down on a soft work area. Measure equal distances from top and bottom (usually between 1″ and 3″) and place hinges at these locations. The aid of a hinge marking jig can save time that is expensive. Start holes for flat head screws by first using a pilot drill bit. Screw on hinges using electric or manual screwdriver.

Make sure that hinges on all doors are the same distances from top and bottom. When installing hinges do not over-tighten screws in order to prevent stripping of screw holes.

Now attach new doors to framework by having someone hold the door in proper place (use human eye to level). Screw hinges to framework, do not over-tighten screws and again use starter holes.

Finally, install knick-knock shelves, desired molding, toe-kicks, etc.

About Author

Tony Bargas

Many people struggling through the tough economy are not going to be able to take advantage of the 2009-10 Energy Efficiency Tax Credit simply because they can’t afford new windows and doors, water heaters, or more insulation. However, there are a few things you can do around your home to air seal it to save money during the winter months and during the summer.

Because of the price and use of energy, architects and builders now design a home to be a “thermal envelope”. That is the sum total of the home’s insulation systems including walls, ceilings, foundation, floors, windows, and doors. These work more effectively with good, tight fits that seal out the weather and air. By having a tight seal on your home’s thermal envelope, the less energy you waste or lose by exchanging it too often with the air outside.

So, with this in mind, let’s start at ground level and work our way up to seal your house.

Moisture Barrier

A moisture barrier (usually plastic sheeting) covers the earth beneath a structure to prevent moisture from infiltrating the structure from the ground. All-wooden structures last years longer if they are kept dry and out of contact with the ground. For a house, not only does it help prevent rot but it also helps keep the drier. Because moisture in the air holds heat, even during the most humid months, a moisture barrier will make your Texas home feel drier and cooler.

Most Texas homes are built on either a slab or have crawl spaces under them. Houses with slab foundations typically have concrete poured on top of a plastic moisture barrier. This limits the infiltration of moisture into the thermal envelope of the house. Homes with crawl spaces, meanwhile, feature a moisture barrier in their crawl spaces. Some older homes do not have one and these can be installed by the home owner very easily.

A moisture barrier is plastic sheeting, usually about 6-8 mils thick and is available at any hardware store, typically in sizes ranging from 25 × 25 feet to 100 × 100 feet. It also need not be one single piece of plastic. As long as the sheets overlap each other by about 6 inches or so, it will be effective.

To install, you will need to know the dimensions of your crawl space and buy enough plastic sheeting to cover the ground in that space. Simply cut the plastic sheeting to cover the earth from wall to wall, laying it flat. You can use either black or clear plastic, but I would use clear because black plastic would make your crawl space feel like a cramped version of Batman’s lair.

You should notice the difference within 24 hours. If your house feels too dry, simply fold back some of the plastic sheeting to expose the earth underneath. Continue adjusting until your home feels the most comfortable to you.

As mentioned, moisture barriers limit the infiltration of moisture into the thermal envelope of the house. The house feels drier: It will be easier to cool in the summer and less likely to develop mold or contribute to wood rot in the winter.

Mudsill and Rim Joists

The next place to check out is the mudsill. The mudsill is the board that is bolted flat on to the top of the foundation wall. An example of one is a 2×8 board bolted onto the final course of cement blocks. It provides a bed to attach the flooring joists and banding boards for the first floor of the house. Depending on how well it is installed, it can let in a lot of cold air and moisture.

Places to look for gaps is where the mudsill is fastened to the foundation. A common building practice now is to put down a plastic foam gasket over the foundation before attaching the pressure treated lumber that will be the mudsill. In older homes, either a paper-backed cellulose material was put down or nothing was used. To find gaps, get as close as possible to the mudsill from the inside and look for daylight shining through between the mudsill and the foundation wall and feel for a draft of cool air.

If your foundation is made of cement blocks, look for the vertical joints between the blocks. When these blocks are put into place, the mortar between the blocks often slumps leaving thin mortar or none at all. Over time as the house settles, holes can appear. While these might be small holes that let through tiny amounts of air, if your home has 10 or 20 of them, you’re letting in a lot of weather and insects. Seal every hole you find with silicon caulk or expanding foam.

Another place along the mudsill to look for is where the rim joists attach. The rim joist (sometimes called “banding joist”) is the piece of wood that closes off the end of the flooring joist or is the last floor joist underneath the exterior wall. The bottom edge is not necessarily an air-tight seal. In fact, I lived in one older house where there was a half-inch gap between the rim joist and mudsill. Now, while this seems small, the gap ran for the entire length of the house: 25 feet. It was the equivalent of leaving a 24 inch by 24 inch window open all the time. Some expandable foam quickly sealed this gap and there was a noticeable improvement in comfort and cost right away.

Windows

If you have double-hung wooden sash windows with storm windows that are drafty, there are several ways to make them more energy efficient.

Make sure the glazing on the glass panes of the sash windows is not cracked or crumbling. The glazing helps hold and seal the glass to the wooden window and thus blocks drafts and quiets rattling – especially from traffic. It also lessens the likelihood that the glass will break if a pet or a child presses against it. Glazing is something of a skilled art. That being said, it’s not that hard to do. Re-glazing a window yourself can save you $50 to $100 or more. All you need is glazing putty ($5), a putty knife ($2), some glaziers’ points ($2 for a box of 100) and some time.

First, remove any old, cracked, or crumbling glazing with a putty knife. Glazing putty dries to be very, very hard and will last decades. It can be loosened with a heat gun, but keep the gun moving or the heat will crack the glass.

When the old putty has been removed, remove all the old glaziers’ points. Now, lift out the pane and set it aside. Sand the channel where the pane fits on the wooden sash. Usually, I apply a thin bead of silicone caulk in this channel before replacing the glass. This helps to seat and seal the glass pane. This especially helps when working on multiple small panes (called “lights”) separated by thin or fragile wooden mullions (also called “muntins”). Next, insert new glaziers points. This is done by using the putty knife to press points into the wooden sash along the glass pane to keep it in place. Take your time so that you don’t break the glass.

Glazing putty can be purchased in either a can or a tube with a shaped tip that fits in a caulking gun. However, it does take some practice to get just the right angle and right amount of putty on the glass. When using the tube mix, keep the 45 degree angled tip steadily against the glass and lay a bead of putty the length of bottom of the pane. If you’re using the putty from the can, roll the putty into long snake (or rope) and place it along the edge of the pane and along the wood. Gently press it into position so that it forms a nice 45 degree angle with the putty knife. The putty is shaped this way so that water runs off the glass to the edge of the window sash instead of into the window pane channel where it can rot the wood.

The next thing to look for is if your windows close snugly. Both the top and bottom window have what is called a “meeting rail”. On the upper window, it is the bottom of the window and on the bottom window it is the top. These meeting rails are shaped so that they mesh together when they close. This helps seat and seal the window properly. Check to see if the bottom window runs firmly – but not tightly – along the window jamb as you close the window. If it’s too loose and wiggles back and forth, it probably won’t seat very tightly when it’s closed. You can use a putty knife to pry out the window jambs and then re-position them to improve how tightly the window will close. You might try adding felt or self-adhesive foam weather stripping. Also make sure you clean out any debris from the window to ensure the window will seat and seal snugly.

As metal storm windows age, the harder they seem to close. This usually happens because of dirt and corrosion. Make sure the window tracks are clean and free of dirt and debris so the window runs smoothly.

Outside, check that the storm window frame is held tightly in place against the wooden window frame. Screws that hold this frame in place might be loose and might need to be replaced or moved to a new spot. Most drafts from storms windows come from where the storm window frame meets the wooden window frame. Once you’re certain the storm window frame is secure, lay a bead of caulk into the seam where the metal storm window frame meets the wooden window frame. Typically, there are two slots cut into the bottom apron of the storm window frame. Do not seal these. These are weep holes that allow condensation to escape.

If you have modern, double glazed windows (windows with two panes of glass), one of the things to look out for is fogging between the panes. Double glazed windows are made by attaching a pane of glass with adhesive to either side of a half-inch wide aluminum frame either in a vacuum or a very dry environment. It is then a single unit and is installed into a standardized window frame. Fogging is a sign that the seal on the window unit has failed and water vapor has penetrated into the space between the panes. If the fogging is still present in summer, it’s a good guess that acids have also leeched in with the water vapor and have permanently etched the window glass. If the fogging disappears when the window warms, then it’s not too late to treat it. Examine the wood of the window for any discoloration from moisture. Look for peeling, flaking paint or soft, gray-colored wood. If you find some, sand it smooth and then seal it with an oil-based enamel or polyurethane. If the wood is very soft, you might try using an epoxy formulated to penetrate and preserve rotten wood. Be sure to mask the glass first with painter’s tape.

A builder installs a door or window with wedges called shims so that the window can float inside a rough opening in the framing. While this lets the door or window open and close freely as it expands and contracts during the year, it also means a lot of outside air can infiltrate your house by getting in around the window frame if it has not been insulated or if it has been damaged. During the summer, it usually isn’t a noticeable problem. During the winter, though, if you see moisture or mildew there could be a problem with the window frame.

Look outside for damage to the siding and window frame. Look for holes or wet, rotten wood, or even a loose piece of siding. It’s important to clean and seal problems like these quickly, especially if moisture has been getting inside your wall, because the damage will just worsen over time. Rotten or damaged siding can be replaced easily with new pieces from the hardware store. Rotten or damaged window sills should be completely removed and replaced and the inside of the wall inspected for mold, rot, and other damage. However, this is no small job and requires time and skills to complete. It might need the hand of a professional. For an immediate, short-term fix, clean out the rotten wood as best you can and fill the hole with fiberglass auto body putty. This will provide a hard, waterproof barrier against the weather. Be sure to contour and shape it so that it will not interfere with opening and closing the window.

If moisture or rain is getting into your window frame, check to see if any of your rain gutters run over head. Check to see if these are clogged. Also, consider installing drip edging along the top of your windows to help run water around and away from the windows and siding when it rains. After you’ve installed it, be sure to caulk it in place so moisture can’t penetrate behind it.

A lot of folks consider it hideous to put over your windows but it will keep the wind out: clear plastic sheeting. This is probably the easiest temporary energy fix owners of older homes use to keep cold, damp winter weather out. There are two approaches: Apply the clear plastic sheeting to the outside of the window by stapling it to the wood window frame and then nailing lathe over the stapled edge to secure the plastic. Or apply the plastic sheeting to double-sided tape on the inside of the window frame (usually available in kits from the home center). To be sure, neither is an attractive solution. However, if you have an older home with double-hung windows in poor condition, this short-term fix does a lot for only $10 and about 15 minutes of work. In fact, even if your windows close snugly, it might not be a bad idea for a north-facing window that doesn’t have much of a view.

Energy Efficient Window Treatments: “It’s Curtains for You!”

Curtains not only add style, color, and privacy to a room, they also act as an insulating blanket for one of the most thermally conductive parts of the house: the windows. Curtains are even more effective at sealing off a window when they have thermal backing. Thermal backing is usually foam because foam permits water vapor to move through the fabric rather than condensing on the cold side toward the window and causing moisture problems. An additional benefit to thermal curtains is that they help deaden noise from outside that is normally transmitted into the room by the window glass. In the summer, the curtains also block hot sun.

Thermal curtains can be made even more efficient by adding a valance with a top. Usually, window valances conceal the curtain hardware such as the rods and brackets. However, if the valance has a top cover, warm air that would normally circulate down between the cool glass and the back of the curtain is blocked. Valances can be made with plywood and then stained, painted, or covered in fabric.

Another option is a window quilt. These are blanket-like shade that roll down to cover the window. Some are held tightly in place by magnetic strips attached to both the quilt and the window frame.

Finally, one last accessory for the double hung window is the Window Worm. This is a fabric tube about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter and is as long as a window is wide. It is stuffed with quilting foam or cloth scraps and laid along where the top and bottom window sashes meet to help keep out drafts. Longer ones weighted with sand can also be made and placed across the foot of doors.

About Author

Bounce Energy

Bounce Energy is a Texas Electric Company based in Houston. Bounce Energy’s goal is provide more than low Texas Electric Rates to our customers. With innovative and flexible plans, excellent customer service, and superior customer rewards, Bounce Energy offers a unique approach to Texas electricity.